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Friday is Yohji Yamamoto day. Despite the pouring rain, the guests of his Spring/Summer 2022 show were in for a moment of poetry as only he can provide. Inside the Hôtel de Ville’s main ballroom, the collection felt like the embodiment of pure beauty. The models, sometimes arriving in groups of two or three, told a story woven from the same thread. To the sound of a few imperceptible notes, the black silhouettes redesign the body with drapes and volumes, and as the music built to a crescendo, the fabric began to show cuts, layered belts and metal chains. Hints of white crept in alongside the dominant black before the two opposites meet and unite. The collection reached its peak as the soundtrack switched to the remix of “Knocking on Heaven’s Door”. Like a new birth, the volumes expanded until blossoming as cage dresses and expressed Yamamoto’s own sense of softness. The models even stopped for a moment to offer black roses to a few lucky guests sitting in the front row. More than a fashion moment, it was a collective, poetic experience of Yohji Yamamoto’s genius.

Photos: Pierre Mouton
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